I have visited more than 100 ski resorts in France – and this one is the best

I first visited Courchevel on my debut skiing holiday, back in 1978, when I was staying in a chalet in neighbouring Méribel. Towards the end of the week, my friends persuaded me to take the gondola to the top of La Saulire mountain and plunge down the red Combe Saulire piste. At the time, as a beginner, it was daunting – later this became one of my favourite runs on the planet.

Courchevel has also grown on me tenfold – and having now skied in more than 100 resorts in France, it tops my chart of go-to destinations. Since that first foray on the slopes, I’ve stayed in Courchevel more than a dozen times, sometimes for a week’s holiday with friends and my non-skiing wife. It has never failed to please. 

The resort has five distinctly separate villages – each with its own personality. All are linked by lifts, pistes and a road which winds its way up through Courchevel Le Praz and Courchevel Moriond to the highest base, simply known as Courchevel (1850). Off the road are Courchevel Village and La Tania.

Admittedly, Courchevel has an international reputation for being the mountain playground for the rich, famous and fashionable – with prices to match. But don’t be put off. There are plenty of affordable and down-to-Earth spots too. And, for skiers in search of the best skiing in France, it has the most compelling and varied slopes of the entire Trois Vallées area.

Compelling and varied skiing

Courchevel’s local slopes offer 150km of pistes, served by 58 lifts, and despite it being part of the world’s largest ski area, many visitors are quite happy to venture no further during a week’s holiday. There’s something for all standards, including great beginner areas in both 1850 and Courchevel Moriond. I’ve always enjoyed the gentle green and blue runs that abound – all are immaculately groomed every night, usually have great snow thanks to their north-facing geography, and have excellent snowmaking.

My highlights include the Combe Saulire red slope. Tackled first thing in the morning when it’s delightfully quiet and with virgin corduroy snow, you can safely cruise down it a couple of times at high speed before the crowds arrive. I also love the Chapelets and Rochers slopes at the edge of the local ski area above Moriond – they’re pleasantly quiet as the hordes head off towards the wider appeal of the Trois Vallées.

When the black runs, such as Suisses, M, Pylones and L’Eclipse (the downhill race run created for the 2023 World Championships), are groomed, they are a great blast. In my younger days, I loved the unpisted Grand Couloir, reached by a narrow bumpy ridge from the Saulire cable car – it’s the steepest piste in Courchevel but wide, and you can inspect it on the cable car ride up before committing (stand on the right for the best view). 

When it’s snowing heavily and visibility is tricky, the best place to be in the whole of the Trois Vallées is in the trees above Le Praz and La Tania, where there are runs of every variety and the powder stays fresh.

Exploring the rest of the 3 Vallées

Undeniably, keen piste-bashers will want to head out to explore all the 600km of pistes offered by the Trois Vallées – the world’s largest ski area. If you drop over from Saulire and head towards Méribel Mottaret, you only need two fast lifts to reach the far end of the area at Val Thorens. 

But going straight to the ski area’s furthest reaches means you overlook two of its best runs. Don’t miss the long, steep, north-facing Combe du Vallon red piste from Mont Vallon – almost always groomed – and consider a detour to Les Menuires to ski the long, north-facing runs from the top of La Masse. If you make it to Val Thorens, head to the top of the Cîme de Caron at 3,200m. If the descending black run is open, don’t miss it – it’s wide, with good snow and a wonderful fast cruise.

Affordable local mountain restaurants

Most of Courchevel’s mountain restaurants charge eye-watering prices. An exception is Bel Air, at the top of the gondola from Moriond. I’ve had lots of excellent, good-value meals here on the splendid tiered terrace and in the nice woody interior. The service is good, as is the plat du jour, and the reasonably priced house wines – a rarity in such a high-profile resort.  

Just below the top of the gondola up from La Tania is another underrated venue, Le Bouc Blanc. This is even better value. The plat du jour is a bargain and always reliable – I’ve also enjoyed delicious, huge lamb shanks and varied linguine dishes without breaking the bank.

Authentic, good-value appeal

Despite the decline in visits by Russian oligarchs in recent years, glitzy Courchevel 1850 is still the super-luxe, mega-priced bolthole it was. Home to a host of five-star and palace hotels, plus several Michelin-starred restaurants, it’s where the A-list come to ski and be seen.

I’ve always preferred to stay further down the valley in more affordable Courchevel Moriond or Le Praz, which are smaller in scale and have much more of a village atmosphere. 

Off the slopes, below Moriond, the huge Aquamotion leisure complex includes indoor and outdoor pools, slides, indoor surfing, steam rooms, saunas and more – I could happily spend a whole day there. For those in search of traditional après-ski, I’ve regularly returned to Fire and Ice – the big outdoor terrace of Hotel Portetta at the foot of the Moriond slopes, with heaters, log fires and comfy sofas. Opposite the gondola base, Le Schuss is another of my favourites as the lifts close – head to the back for great views over the valley, spectacular sunsets and a taste of the down-to-Earth side of Courchevel so many have forgotten.

The runners-up

Val d’Isère

Val comes a close second to Courchevel. It has great piste skiing and marvellous off-piste. However, the lack of easy runs to the valley is a big disadvantage for beginners and early intermediates.

Chamonix

A traditional mountain town, with an atmospheric car-free centre and spectacular views of the tumbling glaciers of Mont Blanc, Chamonix is not to be missed. But the skiing suits good, confident intermediates and experts best and is spread inconveniently between five main areas.

Serre Chevalier

Lesser-known Serre Chevalier spans a long mountainside that spreads over nine miles from one end to the other, with four main villages that each have ancient centres. There’s wonderful intermediate cruising and reliable snow. But its atmosphere is spoiled by the busy main road along the valley and the unattractive buildings of the 1960s and 1970s.

Essentials

British chalet operator Le Ski (01484 548996; leski.com) offers piste-side Chalet Rikiki – the largest of its 17 properties in the resort – from £1,150 per person, including chalet board, flights and transfers. 

The five best ski holidays in France

More British skiers visit French resorts each winter than any of the other Alpine nations. To meet demand, the sheer volume and variety of ski holidays on offer is overwhelming. Here are five of the best, for this season and next, which you must book now to avoid disappointment. 

Courchevel for Christmas

Chalet Le Blanchot for four people is extremely smart and central in Moriond, with two bedrooms and a lovely living room. From £2,130 with Le Ski (01484 548996; leski.com), including a free Trois Vallées lift pass, departing December 22 2024.

New Year in Morzine

The ancient Chalet La Grande Maison offers a super-luxury stay for large groups – with a private swimming pool, three hot tubs and in-resort driver. From £91,000 total with The Oxford Ski Company (01865 817420; oxfordski.com), sleeping 20, departing December 29 2024.

Affordable half-term in Tignes

The Residence Les Almes apartments are in a quiet area of Tignes le Lac, close to the shops and restaurants. From £1,932 total for a one-bedroom apartment with Erna Low (020 3011 1222; ernalow.co.uk), sleeping four, self-catering, excluding travel, departing February 15 2025.

Great value in Arc 2000

Hotel Club Altitude has recently been completely renovated and is perfectly placed for the pistes in the highest resort in Les Arcs. From £1,163 with Skiworld (0330 102 8004; skiworld.co.uk), departing January 11 2025.

Late-season in Val d’Isère

No 5 Aspen House is right in the centre near the shops, bars and nursery slope, with three bedrooms and a shared spa area. From £1,000 with Ski Solutions (020 3918 9620; skisolutions.com), including transfers but not flights, departing April 14, 2024.

Unless stated otherwise, all prices are per person, including half board, flights and transfers.