US Edition
I’m in the breakfast aisle at the supermarket. Although I’m trying to make healthy choices, my attention is grabbed by the sugary cereals, honey-laden granolas, choc-chip bars and breakfast biscuits filled with some kind of strawberry gloop.
Later, my gaze travels over the breakfast goodies on offer at a chain coffee shop: plump blueberry muffins, sticky cinnamon swirls and something called a “plant-based breakfast sandwich”. And the next day, at a service station, I’m faced with doughnuts, slabs of rocky road and yet more muffins – lemon this time, with a dollop of icing on top.
Wherever we go, we are bombarded with breakfast temptations – the vast majority high in sugar and fat and inevitably highly processed. I don’t want to start the day by guzzling this stuff. No, actually – I do.
But as I try to resist – forcing myself towards the fresh fruit and yoghurt instead – I find myself wondering whatever happened to the great British breakfast, and how it all went so wrong.
“Our love of the traditional English is about upholding that tradition,” says Guise Bule, chairman of the English Breakfast Society, which celebrates its heritage and culture. “We remember our mothers and grandmothers making it with great care. Only the Sunday roast comes anywhere near for anticipation and enjoyment.”
Yet, somehow, that revered combination of golden-yolked eggs and perfectly crisped bacon has fallen by the wayside. It’s not just that the full English was, as Bule puts it, “something of a treat, and certainly not for every day, as nowadays, few of us need that amount of calories first thing”. It’s that breakfast culture has shifted to the extent that few of us are even boiling an egg or knocking together a bowl of porridge.
How sugar (and salt) became a breakfast staple
Fewer than half (49 per cent) of us eat breakfast seven days a week, according to a recent YouGov survey, with 13 per cent skipping it every day. Of those who need morning sustenance, by far the most popular option is cereal. The booming UK breakfast cereals market is currently worth £2.7 billion, and rising.
But what we’re spooning in with one eye on the clock is, “Mainly toasted starch, whose nutritional value is only minimally better than cardboard,” says Prof Tim Spector, co-founder of Zoe, the personalised nutrition company, and the author of Food for Life (Jonathan Cape, £22).
It’s sweet, too: although sugar-reduction goals of 20 per cent were set out by Public Health England back in 2017, these targets have not been met and some cereal and yoghurt products still pack in the equivalent of up to four teaspoons of sugar per suggested serving. Yet sugar is not the only baddie lurking in our breakfast bowls.
After Weetabix, the UK’s second favourite is Coco Pops. Its maker, Kellogg’s, may have halved its sugar content, but it still contains “20 per cent more salt per gram than a typical microwave lasagne”, reports Dr Chris van Tulleken, the author of Ultra-Processed People (Penguin, £22) and an expert in ultra-processed food (UPF). “This incredible saltiness is true of most breakfast cereals – it helps to make them taste amazing,” he adds.
If we’re not downing a quick bowlful of cereal, we might grab a cereal bar or breakfast biscuit on the run. While manufacturers flag up seemingly healthy ingredients, such as oats, honey and fruit – and virtuous-sounding terms like plant-based and gluten-free abound – these products are still highly processed.
Prof Spector points out that manufacturers “use combinations of sugar, corn syrup, gelatine, starch, oil and artificial ‘berry’ flavours and dyes to create their own mock fruit-flavoured product”. You might be better grabbing a couple of digestives instead.
The perils of breakfast on the run
“There’s protein in oat cereal bars, but we’re often seeing sugar, honey and dried fruit, too – so three sources of sugar in one go,” observes nutritional therapist Anne Iarchy. “Digestives certainly wouldn’t be any worse, and they are far cheaper. But we’re unlikely to reach for them for breakfast, as they don’t come in handy packets of two.
“There’s no doubt that we are far busier than we were 20, 30 years ago,” she continues. “Many of us feel we don’t have time for breakfast at home, and along with that comes a whole load of snacking. This often means easily grazeable processed foods – biscuits, crisps, chocolate. Or we’re grabbing breakfast on the go, which is expensive but has become a habit. And it’s mainly carbs and sugar. You’ll get a boost but experience a dip a couple of hours later, resulting in hunger cravings.”
While we might feel uncomfortable admitting to having cake for breakfast, we have no qualms about grabbing a Starbucks blueberry muffin (hey, it’s fruit). Two years ago, our high-street coffee shops were reeling from Covid- related disruption. However, they have bounced back with a vengeance and the UK branded coffee-shop market is now valued at £4.4 billion.
“The targeted marketing, delicious moreish texture and flavours and convenience of these foods makes them especially attractive in our time-poor society,” observes Prof Spector. “Rather than bringing a more nutritious breakfast with us from home, we inhale a pastry with our morning coffee and leave our bodies to deal with the lack of nutrients and fibre, and the excess of refined carbohydrates and fats. I have nothing against enjoying the occasional croissant, but making sweet cereals and pastries the normal dietary habit for breakfast is not helpful for anyone’s health.”
Yet it seems we can’t get enough of our Pret a Manger almond croissants (382kcal) or Caffè Nero’s Ultimate Brunch Brioche (527kcal). Many of us wouldn’t dream of nipping out for a McDonald’s at lunch, yet we think nothing of grabbing a Costa All Day Breakfast Wrap (604kcal with a mighty 33g fat, of which 9.7g are saturates).
Is your breakfast affecting your weight?
When it comes to breakfast, it seems all bets are off. We’re thinking about those tasks waiting for us at work – not the fact that the ultra-processed foods we’re guzzling at our desks are packed with fat, sugar, salt, emulsifiers, gelling agents, preservatives and artificial colourings and flavourings. These calorie-dense UPFs also tend to be low in fibre and nutrients, yet are so moreish that we tend to overconsume them – a major factor in the UK’s soaring weight problem.
In the year to November 2021, 63.5 per cent of adults in England were overweight or living with obesity – up from 62.8 per cent the previous year, according to government figures. The links between UPF and obesity – as well as Type 2 diabetes and cancer – are well-documented.
However, two recent major studies conducted by the Fourth Military Medical University, in Xi’an in China, revealed that men consuming the most ultra-processed food are 24 per cent more likely to experience heart attacks, strokes or angina; and in women, higher UPF consumers are 39 per cent more likely to have high blood pressure – which can lead to an increased risk of heart disease, among numerous other conditions.
“It’s clear to see how ultra-processed products based on refined grains are impacting on our nation’s health,” says Prof Spector. “In the short term, we feel tired and hungry until we eat a proper meal. In the long term, we are contributing to a growing crisis of obesity, Type 2 diabetes and metabolic diseases that are directly linked to our food choices. We should be choosing whole foods, enjoying foods that nourish us and reducing ultra-processed packaged foods that are designed to leave us wanting more.”
How to fix unhealthy habits
Preparing our own food from scratch puts us – and not multinational food companies – in control of the ingredients. Iarchy explains that protein is key, “as it keeps you fuller for longer. Plus, carbs eaten alongside it are processed by your body at a slower rate. This keeps blood-sugar levels stable for longer, so you won’t experience that dip.”
The ideal combination?
“Something like eggs on wholegrain toast with half an avocado and a grilled tomato. Or even last night’s dinner. A bit of meat and vegetables is perfectly fine.” If cholesterol is a concern, the British Heart Foundation states that, for most people, it’s not necessary to restrict eggs when eaten as part of a balanced, healthy diet – although it recommends healthier cooking methods, such as poaching or boiling.
Obviously, breakfast prep requires a little thought and effort – and denies us that boost we enjoy from being greeted by a friendly barista and taking that first bite of a cinnamon roll. “Planning is key,” says nutritionist, health coach and ultra-marathon runner Hayley Field.
“When we’re in a hurry and hungry, that’s when we make impulsive decisions. I say plan for protein, scavenge for carbs – as protein generally needs preparing and cooking, whereas carbs are easy to grab.” Establish new breakfast rituals and the benefits will be almost immediate. “You’ll have more energy and, as a result, be more productive and probably lose weight, if you have weight to lose,” says Iarchy. Plus, as new habits become ingrained, we will soon start to enjoy a healthier bank balance, as well as the physical benefits.
The benefits of a better breakfast
Ruth Mary Chipperfield, a jeweller from Birmingham and mother to a two-year-old son, overhauled her breakfast habits following a consultation with a naturopath. “Until I changed my diet, it was normal for me to have four to five migraines a week,” she says. “Sometimes, I would have one for seven days straight.”
Following advice, Chipperfield set about swapping her cereal with banana for more protein-based breakfasts. “I now normally have two eggs, some avocado and tomato and gluten-free wholegrain bread. Within three days, my migraines had stopped completely. I do have a sweet tooth, but whenever I’m tempted to slip, I remind myself that it simply isn’t worth it, as making these changes has made a huge difference to my quality of life.”
New research conducted at the University of Murcia, in Spain, suggests that, in order to align our eating with our circadian rhythms, it’s better to consume most of our calories earlier in the day, when metabolic systems are operating at their peak. But what if you simply can’t stomach more than a coffee at 7.30am?
Developing healthier habits that you can stick to is “dependent on adherence and patience”, Field explains. “So if you’re absolutely not a breakfast person, don’t force yourself or you won’t stick to it. We are all different. My daughter needs to eat within 20 minutes of waking, whereas, unless I’ve had a tough workout, I rarely feel like eating before 11am.”
Timing doesn’t really matter, she says. It’s more about listening to what your body needs. “In warmer months, I might have a shake including frozen berries, avocado for creaminess and some protein powder. When it’s colder, it might be porridge with protein powder, berries and seeds – or eggs, bacon and avocado on toast.”
Whatever you fancy, there are endless ways to give the great British breakfast the love and attention it deserves. So let’s get cracking.
– Fiona Gibson
Seven ways to revolutionise your morning
By Silvana Franco
If your fix is high-sugar cereal …
Crunchy Nut cornflakes
119kcals, 1.4g fat, 11g sugar, 0.23g salt per 30g serving
More than 5.3 million of us pick Kellogg’s Crunchy Nut to start the day. While a 30g serving at 119kcals before adding milk might not seem overly calorific, it contains 11g sugar, close to half the recommended daily allowance (25g) for women. It’s also low in fibre – less than a gram per bowl – a guaranteed combination for a blood-glucose spike that’ll leave you hungry before lunch.
Try this...
Homemade granola
157kcals, 9g fat, 2.4g sugar, 0.0015g salt per 30g serving
Melt 40g coconut oil with 2 tbsp dark maple syrup and 2 tbsp water. Stir in 300g jumbo rolled oats, 75g each of chopped almonds and coconut flakes, and 50g pumpkin seeds. Bake for 30 minutes at 150C (stir once), then add 75g chopped dried apricots. Bake for 10 more minutes. At 2.4g sugar per 30g serving, it contains less than a quarter of the sugar and four times the fibre.
If your fix is a buttery croissant …
Almond croissant
475kcals, 26.8g fat, 24.5g sugar, 0.55g salt per croissant
Enjoying shop-bought pastries more than once in a blue moon is not advisable. As well as being highly processed, at 475kcals an almond croissant is one of the most calorific pastry options out there. Very high in sugar and can contain close to 10g of saturated fat per serving.
Try this...
Smoked salmon and scrambled egg muffin
430kcals, 16.8g fat, 4.3g sugar, 1.15g salt per serving
For an alternative but just as decadent breakfast, try a wholegrain or seeded English muffin topped with nourishing scrambled eggs and smoked salmon. Save 45kcals and 10g of fat while enjoying a high-protein and slow-release carbohydrate combination that’ll keep you feeling full far longer.
If your fix is a greasy bacon sandwich …
Bacon sandwich
480kcals, 20.2g fat, 6.6g sugar, 4.25g salt per sandwich
It is no surprise that the UK loves a bacon butty, but low-quality white bread filled with fried streaky bacon and a squirt of sugary ketchup is dismally low in nutrients. Most bacon has added nitrites, which are used as preservatives and to enhance colour, but are associated with an increased risk of cancer.
Try this...
Healthier bacon sandwich
454kcals, 15g fat, 3.5g sugar, 3g salt per sandwich
Bolster the nutrients in your sandwich by choosing a healthier loaf with plenty of seeds. Opt for a couple of slices of nitrite-free back bacon, trimmed of all visible fat and grilled alongside a sliced tomato. Improve your butty further with a few slices of nutrient-rich avocado.
If your fix is a shop-bought muffin …
Blueberry muffin
381kcals, 16.6g fat, 26.7g sugar, 0.38g salt per muffin
A shop-bought blueberry muffin can contain close to 400kcals and 27g sugar: that’s nearly two tablespoons of sugar in a muffin that won’t come close to filling you up or keep your energy levels on an even keel.
Try this...
Blueberry smoothie
193kcals, 7.3g fat, 19g sugar, 1.025g salt per glass
This fruity, nutrient-dense smoothie is rich in calcium and potassium, and with an added protein boost from the nut butter and yoghurt, it’ll keep you satisfied for longer, too. Whizz 150g blueberries, 1 small banana, 50g natural/Greek yoghurt, 1 tbsp almond butter and 200ml semi-skimmed milk in a blender until smooth, pour into two glasses and serve swiftly.
If your fix is a cinnamon roll …
Shop-bought cinnamon bun
379kcals, 19.1g fat, 19.4g sugar, 0.36g salt per bun
Not far behind the almond croissant in calories and fat. High in sugar and loaded with fat (11.5g saturated fat per bun). If you do want to indulge, make it an occasional treat and choose a bun topped with a dusting of sugar or, at a push, plain icing, rather than the fashionable cream-cheese frosting.
Try this...
Air-fryer cinnamon fruit toast
175kcals, 4.2g fat, 12.2g sugar, 0.16g salt per serving
The sweet and spice of a cinnamon bun for less than half the calories and a quarter of the fat. Heat the air fryer to 175C. Flatten the centre of 2 slices of wholemeal bread to leave a border. Beat together an egg, ½ tsp ground cinnamon, 3 tbsp natural yoghurt and 2 tsp honey. Spoon onto bread and top with fruit. Air-fry for 7 minutes until bread is crisp and custard set. Serves 2.
If your fix is speedy toast …
Jam on white toast
175kcals, 4.9g fat, 5.7g sugar, 0.52g salt per slice
A breakfast of white toast, butter and jam, while undeniably effortless, is not going to set your day off on a good footing. White bread lacks the fibre, vitamins and minerals found in whole grains, and when coupled with sugary jam it will cause rapid spikes in blood-sugar levels, followed by a crash.
Try this...
Strawberries on toast
136kcals, 2.2g fat, 4g sugar, 0.42g salt per slice
A slice of seeded brown bread spread with soft cheese topped with sliced strawberries will offer a sweet kick without the subsequent plummeting energy levels. Check labels when choosing soft cheese; “lighter” styles may be lower in fat (about 11g per 100g), but are usually loaded with stabilisers and thickeners. Look for whole cream cheese made with just milk and salt.
If your fix is a on-the-go biscuit
Breakfast cereal bars
197kcals, 6.5g fat, 9.7sugar, 0.63g salt per 45g
These may offer convenience but are ultra processed. Most contain an ingredients list as long as your arm and a host of additives.
Try this…
Pear and walnuts
160kcals, 9.9g fat, 13.4g sugar, 0g salt per serving
Fruit paired with fat and protein such as an apple with a small chunk of cheese or some nuts provide an entirely unprocessed and satisfying start with all the convenience of a grab-and-go bar. Try a pear matched with six walnut halves; packed with essential nutrients and vitamins and about twice the amount of fibre of the cereal biscuits. Walnuts are also a good source of heart-healthy omega-3 fatty acids.